I received two new Eufy wireless security cameras about a month ago and I absolutely love them. The app is really easy to use, provides real time notifications and only picks up human motion.
Additionally, they are completely wireless and only need to be charged once every 6 months. I’ve had other cameras that said they were wireless, but still needed to be plugged into power, these don’t.
There is no monthly subscription required and all of my videos are stored locally and is extremely secure. If you have been thinking about upgrading or starting your smart home journey, I highly recommend starting with these.
Since I receive so many questions about the rugs in my home, I thought I would put them all in one place! Most of my rugs are from Boutique Rugs. You can use code REVEAL60 for 60% off of anything on their site. They have lots of great decor, throws and pillow covers too!
We recently finished this accent wall in our guest room and I’m so excited to share it with you. We were a little intimidated by the herringbone pattern at first, but once you get it started, it’s a pretty easy process. The hardest part for us was all of the cuts around the windows. If you have a full wall, this would go much faster. Let’s dig into how to do it!
First, measure your wall to determine total square feet (length x height). Our wall is approximately 117 sq ft. Each box covers 20 square feet.
Divide your wall square footage by 20 and round up. For a herringbone pattern, add about 15% for waste from cuts.
STEP 2: MARK THE CENTER OF YOUR WALL
Finding your center point is really important to ensure you end up with an even herringbone pattern at the end of your project.
STEP 3: ATTACH THE FIRST 2 BOARDS
Now we get to start the fun stuff! Take two of your planks and mark the center of one end of each board. Line the planks up (bottom of each plank should hit your baseboard or floor) on the wall along the center line. You can use a speed square to confirm you have 90 degrees.
Once you know how they will be placed, mark the bottom line to make the 45 degree cut. We used a box cutting knife and a straight edge on ours. Once cut, remove the backing and stick them to the wall.
STEP 4: CONTINUE ADDING BOARDS TO THE WALL
As you are working, it is up to you if you want to move up or out. For us, we worked on the center section first because that did not require any cuts. If you are working on a full wall, you could also work your way out and then up. If you have your pattern correct, the order in which you do it should not really matter.
On thing to note: All cuts (besides cutting around outlets and other obstacles) should be 45 degrees. Again, we used the box cutting knife and straight edge tool to make these cuts. When in doubt, cut too long and you can always trim down.
Once you are finished, if you have any edges where the boards are not perfectly straight, run a bead of caulk for a more seamless look.
Also, if the herringbone pattern feels overwhelming to you, these planks would also look beautiful in a simple vertical or horizontal installation. I love to see your finished products, so be sure to email them to me or share them with me on Instagram.
STEP 5: ROLL THE WALL USING A VINYL ROLLER
This step will ensure all of your boards adhere to the wall properly. You can find these at any home improvement store. I have also linked one here for you.
For video and full details of this project and many more, check out our Instagram account. Comment below with any questions or comments on this project.
When we decided we wanted to do an accent wall in our guest room, the next thing we had to decide was 1) what kind of look are we going for? 2) which product would fit our budget and still achieve the look we want? When we found the DuraDecor peel and stick luxury vinyl planks, we knew it was a win!
These planks come in a variety of colors and can be used on floors and walls. Our guest room was starting to look like a black and white photo, so I knew I wanted to warm it up.
We ordered several samples and ultimately decided on the rough cut lumber greige planks.
This product is available exclusively at Home Depot, is budget friendly and easy to work with. And the best part, you don’t need any power tools to install it!
Our plan is to install this product in a herringbone pattern. We will share all of the details in an additional blog post and also on Instagram.
Highly Recommended: Mask or Air Purifier to help with fumes.
Before you begin, Read all instructions on the box. Clean your shower with Comet and lightly sand to ensure the product bonds well to the tile. This will also create a smooth paint application.
It’s important to remove the trim and the plumbing fixtures before doing anything else! Since the tile will be painted, the faucet and other fixtures need to be dissembled before paint is applied. This part was pretty simple for me to handle on my own, though Kyle was there to supervise!
Next, tape off the edges of the shower with painter’s tape. If you are unable to remove your shower curtain, be sure to tape that too!
Then it’s time to cut in the edges with a brush before rolling on the paint! We used Rustoleum Tub and Tile Epoxy Acrylic Formula as our paint! 3 total coats are to be applied, however, let the paint dry for several hours between coats. The paint needs to cure for at least 48 hours before the shower can be used again.
Mask or air filter highly recommend for the fumes (follow all instructions on the box).
If your tile dries and there’s a spot where the epoxy is not sticking, rub a small amount of caulk over the spot and let dry. Once dry, apply another coat of paint and it should stick! See picture below for reference.
I’ve received so many questions lately on how I added sconce cord covers to our bedroom wall sconces on either side of our bed! And…can I get a round of applause for doing this by myself?! I have a video highlight on the DIY you can see HERE, but I wanted to do a step-by-step blog tutorial with the details if you’re a reader like me!
I know some people like to hide the wire that comes down from sconces on the wall, however, I decided to embrace the wire instead! This is such a simple DIY that didn’t take me long at all.
First, you’ll need wire tubing you can purchase at Home Depot. You can also find it HERE!
Next, spray paint! I had 4 different gold spray paints on hand, so I decided to test each one of them against the wall sconces to see which one matched best. I had an all-in-one spray paint and primer that worked perfectly! You can find the exact color HERE!
Pro tip for spray painting: make sure you apply with light and even strokes! It will be more even this way.
After the spray paint was completely dry, it was time to add the tubing to the cord to make it look like an extension of the light. I had to remove the plastic piece that holds the cord in place because it was interfering with the tube laying flat against the sconces. It was super easy to remove! There’s a seam on the side of the tube, so I simply pushed the wire into the seam.
The tubing comes with a peel and stick feature so once the cord was completely covered, it was time to line it up on the wall!
I am so pleased and excited about how these turned out! Keep scrolling to see the end result. I truly don’t think you would ever know it wasn’t part of the light which was my main goal.
To all you ladies out there… this goes to show that WE CAN DO THIS! I empower and encourage you to take on those home projects by yourself. You have the ability and power to accomplish any home project that you set your mind to!
I love the bead garland I am seeing all over IG and Pinterest, but not the price tag that goes along with it. So, I decided to make it myself 🙂
Feel free to give this project a try and let me know what you think.
MAKE THE TASSELS:
To make the tassel, wrap the jute around your hand at a wider point several times until you get it as thick as you would like.
BIND THE TASSELS:
Once you have the thickness you want, slide the jute off of your hand. Then take another piece of jute and wrap at the opposite direction leaving some space at the top to connect your string of beads.
Once you have wrapped a good amount of jute in the opposite direction, add a drop of hot glue to hold it in place
Cut the bottom loop of the longer side of the tassel so that it opens up.
If your tassel is a bit curly, you can run a steamer over it to straighten it out.
STRING THE BEADS:
The next step is to string your wooden beads on another piece of jute string, and then tie that to the tassel. You can always add a tassel to each end if you prefer. I find it easier if you wrap the end with a small piece of tape (this will keep the jute from fraying).
TAH DAH! YOU’RE DONE!
A few things to note: you can make your strand as long or as short as you want, use varying size beads, and or paint/stain your beads before stringing them. The possibilities are endless.
This is a multi size pack of beads ordered on Amazon.
I am so excited to finally share our DIY Tufted Headboard with you. I’ve had many requests for this blog post, and I do apologize it took me so long to get this posted. I wanted to make it as detailed as possible, which required the help of my hubby because let’s be honest… he did most of the work. 🙂
Without further ado, here are the headboard instructions.
Once the beams were complete, we cut them to the size we needed for our headboard, screwed and glued them to ½” plywood which was ripped to the size we needed earlier. Corner braces were used on all four corners to make the headboard strong and rigid. One important thing to note here is to be sure to screw in from the plywood side into the beams. This way the head of the screw is in the plywood which would not be strong enough for the threads of the screw to bite into.
With the structure itself complete, the next step was to drill the holes that would later be used to perform the tufting. To ensure the holes were aligned properly, an X was made using chalk line to mark the center of the board.
Next, to ensure all the holes would be evenly and adequately spaced, we used a sheet of pegboard to mark where we would drill. Depending on how much “tufting” you want, you can modify the spacing of your holes, the key is to make sure they are even. We moved ours around a few times in order to achieve the look we wanted.
Once the holes were drilled, a memory foam mattress topper was glued to the face of the plywood and cut to size. We then used a long knitting needle pushed through the drilled holes in the board and through the foam to determine where to cut the holes in the foam. A piece of metal pipe was used to cut 1 inch holes in the foam.
With the holes cut where the tufting buttons will go, a large straight edge is aligned to them and the foam was cut halfway through to the board. These cuts will make the fabric folds for the tufting.
We then laid the batting and fabric over the foam. 1/4th inch bolts, washers, and wingnuts were then screwed through the pre-cut holes. This was a bit tricky, but we figured out having one person underneath, holding the wingnut, while the other tightened the bolt from the top was the key.
As the bolts are tightened the fabric gets pushed down. While this is happening we guided the fabric into cuts in the foam to form the creases.
This will look messy at first, but will start coming together as more bolts are added.
With all the bolts in place, we then pulled the fabric around the frame tightly and stapled it to the back. Buttons were then glued to the tops of the bolts. We used matching, fabric-covered buttons. However, any button would work provided they are large enough and have a flat back surface to glue flat to the bolt heads.
Decorative metal beading was then nailed to the edges for a finishing touch.
The next step was to prepare the legs to receive the bolts that would secure the headboard to the bed frame. Since we were using an existing frame, we carefully measured to make sure the holes were aligned properly so the bed would be level. Threaded metal inserts were then inserted into the holes for the bolts to screw into.
Finally the headboard was attached to the frame using the original bolts.
At some point, we will paint the existing bed frame and new headboard legs so they all match. But, since you can’t see any of it when the bed is made, it’s not high on our priority list right now.
Let’s take a moment to admire this beauty one more time 🙂
I hope this post is helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them below. We’d also love to see your headboard if you give this project a try. Please tag us on Instagram @revealmydiy.
I’m excited to share this project with you! When we bought this house, we had a standard range hood over our stove, and I absolutely hated it. Knowing that custom hood ranges can be very expensive, I immediately went to pinterest in search of some DIY ideas. I found several posts that were very informative, but this one from Home Talk was the closest to what we were looking to do. We determined that the easiest (and least expensive) way to update it was to “cover” the existing hood, rather than replacing the entire thing! The home talk link above is a great step by step resource for instructions on how to do this. We purchased our supplies from Home Depot and went to work.
This is the original hood range with upper cabinets. It looked fine, but I wanted something more substantial.
Hubby removing the existing cabinets to make room for the new range cover.
This is the empty space where our new hood cover will go.
Support beams where added and the vent tube was reconnected. Notice how the original vent is still there, we are going to cover it up.
We finished it off with a fresh coat of gray paint to compliment the backsplash. We also added corbels on the bottom, to give it a more polished look.
What do you think? Would you ever attempt a project like this? If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below! If you’ve enjoyed this post, be sure to pin it, so you can easily refer back to it later!