Painted Shower Tile

If you’ve ever wanted to give your shower a simple makeover, this DIY tutorial is for you! We decided to paint the tile in our downstairs bathroom and are so excited about the turnout!

WHAT YOU’LL NEED:

A drill to remove the plumbing fixtures

Painters Tape

Paint Brush

Paint Roller

Tub & Tile Refinishing Kit – Epoxy Acrylic Formula

Caulk (if epoxy does not stick in certain spots)

Highly Recommended: Mask or Air Purifier to help with fumes.

THE BEFORE:

THE PROCESS:

Before you begin, Read all instructions on the box. Clean your shower with Comet and lightly sand to ensure the product bonds well to the tile. This will also create a smooth paint application.

It’s important to remove the trim and the plumbing fixtures before doing anything else! Since the tile will be painted, the faucet and other fixtures need to be dissembled before paint is applied. This part was pretty simple for me to handle on my own, though Kyle was there to supervise!

Next, tape off the edges of the shower with painter’s tape. If you are unable to remove your shower curtain, be sure to tape that too!

Then it’s time to cut in the edges with a brush before rolling on the paint! We used Rustoleum Tub and Tile Epoxy Acrylic Formula as our paint! 3 total coats are to be applied, however, let the paint dry for several hours between coats. The paint needs to cure for at least 48 hours before the shower can be used again.

Mask or air filter highly recommend for the fumes (follow all instructions on the box).

If your tile dries and there’s a spot where the epoxy is not sticking, rub a small amount of caulk over the spot and let dry. Once dry, apply another coat of paint and it should stick! See picture below for reference.

THE AFTER:

FOR BATHROOM DETAILS, CLICK HERE

DIY Wall Sconce Cord Cover

I’ve received so many questions lately on how I added sconce cord covers to our bedroom wall sconces on either side of our bed! And…can I get a round of applause for doing this by myself?! I have a video highlight on the DIY you can see HERE, but I wanted to do a step-by-step blog tutorial with the details if you’re a reader like me!

I know some people like to hide the wire that comes down from sconces on the wall, however, I decided to embrace the wire instead! This is such a simple DIY that didn’t take me long at all.

First, you’ll need wire tubing you can purchase at Home Depot. You can also find it HERE!

Next, spray paint! I had 4 different gold spray paints on hand, so I decided to test each one of them against the wall sconces to see which one matched best. I had an all-in-one spray paint and primer that worked perfectly! You can find the exact color HERE!

Pro tip for spray painting: make sure you apply with light and even strokes! It will be more even this way.

After the spray paint was completely dry, it was time to add the tubing to the cord to make it look like an extension of the light. I had to remove the plastic piece that holds the cord in place because it was interfering with the tube laying flat against the sconces. It was super easy to remove! There’s a seam on the side of the tube, so I simply pushed the wire into the seam.

The tubing comes with a peel and stick feature so once the cord was completely covered, it was time to line it up on the wall!

I am so pleased and excited about how these turned out! Keep scrolling to see the end result. I truly don’t think you would ever know it wasn’t part of the light which was my main goal.

To all you ladies out there… this goes to show that WE CAN DO THIS! I empower and encourage you to take on those home projects by yourself. You have the ability and power to accomplish any home project that you set your mind to!

DIY Stair Runner

I have created a video with step by step instructions on installing a stair runner. I will list the instructions here, but watch the video for the full tutorial.

  1. Measure your stairs and buy 1 more runner than you think you’ll need. You will end up cutting some off, so you don’t want to under buy here (you can always return them, if you don’t need them).
  2. You can start at the top or the bottom (we started at the top, but actually found it easier to pull the rug tight when we worked from the bottom, going up).
  3. Staple under the lip of your stair tread, and then again in the crease of your tread/riser.
  4. Pull down and repeat.
  5. When you get to the end of your rug, cut so that you can secure the cut edge under the lip of the next thread.
  6. you will start your next rug by butting it up against the cut edge, pulling it as tightly into the corner as you can.
  7. Make sure you have a finished edge at both the top and bottom for the best look.
  8. please watch the video and let me know if you have any questions!

Products used for this project can be found here. I have also linked the rug that we used here. Code REVEAL55 will take 55% off of any rug.

diy stair runner

Full tutorial

DIY Beaded Garland

I love the bead garland I am seeing all over IG and Pinterest, but not the price tag that goes along with it. So, I decided to make it myself 🙂

Feel free to give this project a try and let me know what you think.

MAKE THE TASSELS:

diy bead garland

To make the tassel, wrap the jute around your hand at a wider point several times until you get it as thick as you would like.

BIND THE TASSELS:

diy bead garland

Once you have the thickness you want, slide the jute off of your hand. Then take another piece of jute and wrap at the opposite direction leaving some space at the top to connect your string of beads.

GLUE:

diy bead garland

Once you have wrapped a good amount of jute in the opposite direction, add a drop of hot glue to hold it in place

CUT:

diy bead garland

Cut the bottom loop of the longer side of the tassel so that it opens up.

STEAM (OPTIONAL):

diy bead garland

If your tassel is a bit curly, you can run a steamer over it to straighten it out.

STRING THE BEADS:

diy bead garland

The next step is to string your wooden beads on another piece of jute string, and then tie that to the tassel. You can always add a tassel to each end if you prefer. I find it easier if you wrap the end with a small piece of tape (this will keep the jute from fraying).

TAH DAH! YOU’RE DONE!

diy bead garland

A few things to note: you can make your strand as long or as short as you want, use varying size beads, and or paint/stain your beads before stringing them. The possibilities are endless.

BEADS:

diy bead garland

This is a multi size pack of beads ordered on Amazon.

DIY Tufted Headboard

I am so excited to finally share our DIY Tufted Headboard with you. I’ve had many requests for this blog post, and I do apologize it took me so long to get this posted. I wanted to make it as detailed as possible, which required the help of my hubby because let’s be honest… he did most of the work. 🙂

Without further ado, here are the headboard instructions.

Supplies:
1” X 3” pine boards (size may vary depending on the size headboard)
4’ X 8’ Sheet of ½” plywood
Sheet of pegboard (for marking holes)
Wood glue, wood screws and clamps
Threaded bolt inserts
¾” – 1” buttons
¼” X 2 ½” machine bolts with wingnuts and washers
6’ X 9’ Medium duty canvas drop cloth (or fabric of your choice) –
Foam mattress topper (we used memory foam we had on hand, however, other foam can be used just ensure it is at least 3 inches thick)
Decorative metal tack strips (we used 2 packs)
Spray adhesive
Polyester batting
Build:
To begin, we built the beams for the headboard frame from 1×3 pine boards glued together to make 2×3 boards. This was done in order to match the size beams of the existing headboard since we would be tying into the existing bed frame.

Once the beams were complete, we cut them to the size we needed for our headboard, screwed and glued them to ½” plywood which was ripped to the size we needed earlier. Corner braces were used on all four corners to make the headboard strong and rigid. One important thing to note here is to be sure to screw in from the plywood side into the beams. This way the head of the screw is in the plywood which would not be strong enough for the threads of the screw to bite into.
With the structure itself complete, the next step was to drill the holes that would later be used to perform the tufting. To ensure the holes were aligned properly, an X was made using chalk line to mark the center of the board.

Next, to ensure all the holes would be evenly and adequately spaced, we used a sheet of pegboard to mark where we would drill. Depending on how much “tufting” you want, you can modify the spacing of your holes, the key is to make sure they are even. We moved ours around a few times in order to achieve the look we wanted.

Once the holes were drilled, a memory foam mattress topper was glued to the face of the plywood and cut to size. We then used a long knitting needle pushed through the drilled holes in the board and through the foam to determine where to cut the holes in the foam. A piece of metal pipe was used to cut 1 inch holes in the foam.

With the holes cut where the tufting buttons will go, a large straight edge is aligned to them and the foam was cut halfway through to the board. These cuts will make the fabric folds for the tufting.

We then laid the batting and fabric over the foam. 1/4th inch bolts, washers, and wingnuts were then screwed through the pre-cut holes. This was a bit tricky, but we figured out having one person underneath, holding the wingnut, while the other tightened the bolt from the top was the key.
As the bolts are tightened the fabric gets pushed down. While this is happening we guided the fabric into cuts in the foam to form the creases.
This will look messy at first, but will start coming together as more bolts are added.

With all the bolts in place, we then pulled the fabric around the frame tightly and stapled it to the back. Buttons were then glued to the tops of the bolts. We used matching, fabric-covered buttons. However, any button would work provided they are large enough and have a flat back surface to glue flat to the bolt heads.

Decorative metal beading was then nailed to the edges for a finishing touch.

The next step was to prepare the legs to receive the bolts that would secure the headboard to the bed frame. Since we were using an existing frame, we carefully measured to make sure the holes were aligned properly so the bed would be level. Threaded metal inserts were then inserted into the holes for the bolts to screw into.

Finally the headboard was attached to the frame using the original bolts.

At some point, we will paint the existing bed frame and new headboard legs so they all match. But, since you can’t see any of it when the bed is made, it’s not high on our priority list right now.

Let’s take a moment to admire this beauty one more time 🙂

I hope this post is helpful. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them below. We’d also love to see your headboard if you give this project a try. Please tag us on Instagram @revealmydiy.

Note: This post may contain affiliate links

DIY Hood Range

kitchen

I’m excited to share this project with you! When we bought this house, we had a standard range hood over our stove, and I absolutely hated it. Knowing that custom hood ranges can be very expensive, I immediately went to pinterest in search of some DIY ideas. I found several posts that were very informative, but this one from Home Talk was the closest to what we were looking to do. We determined that the easiest (and least expensive) way to update it was to “cover” the existing hood, rather than replacing the entire thing! The home talk link above is a great step by step resource for instructions on how to do this. We purchased our supplies from Home Depot and went to work.

This is the original hood range with upper cabinets. It looked fine, but I wanted something more substantial.
 Hubby removing the existing cabinets to make room for the new range cover.
This is the empty space where our new hood cover will go.
Support beams where added and the vent tube was reconnected. Notice how the original vent is still there, we are going to cover it up.
We then added the MDF panels and put wood “shaker style” molding on the front.
Shaker style molding was then added to the top.
 We finished it off with a fresh coat of gray paint to compliment the backsplash. We also added corbels on the bottom, to give it a more polished look.
kitchen
What do you think? Would you ever attempt a project like this? If you have any questions, please leave them in the comments below! If you’ve enjoyed this post, be sure to pin it, so you can easily refer back to it later!

Bookcase Makeover



I’m so excited to share this one with you guys!! I had this old bookcase/filing cabinet that I almost got rid of, can you believe it? After I decided that I could transform this thing into something beautiful, I told my husband to get his tools ready, because I have dreamed up something special. I knew with a little bit of molding (okay, a lot of molding) and some paint, we could turn this into a show stopper. I don’t want to keep you in suspense anymore, so here is the before and after: 

 

This project really was just a matter of attaching a lot of different moldings to the bookcase, adding feet, changing the hardware, painting it with Annie Sloan chalk paint, and finishing it off with a glaze. 

Here are some pictures of the different molding we used:

 We added a small crown molding and a strip of dental molding to the top.
 
We then framed out trim on the sides.
We used a bigger version of the frame molding for the drawer fronts because they were so large.
 
 This is a before picture of the side.
 
This is in process during painting/glazing while waiting on my husband to work on the moldings. 
 
 

As you can see in the pics, the moldings were all made from different materials, that’s okay because it was all getting covered with paint! All of the moldings were purchased at Home Depot. I found the glaze and the handles at hobby lobby. Annie Sloan paint is only sold in specialty shops, I found mine at a local store called “Two Old Birds” in Raleigh, NC. 

I still need to style the bookcase, I will post pics of that along with the rest of my office update in a later post. 

DIY Mud Bench



This project has actually been done for quite a while, but life got in the way of me sharing it with you. I will start by saying that the majority of this work (minus the vision, painting, and baskets) was all done by my amazing husband. Our home was built in the ’90s and therefore lacked the modern amenity of a mud bench in the laundry area. We had a blank wall between our laundry room and guest bath that was the perfect home for one. 


This is by no means a “how-to” post, but I did want to share the construction progress of how we got to the finished product. I am obsessed with molding and am so glad we were able to incorporate quite a bit of it into this project. I think those little details are what take it to the next level. 

It looks like it’s always been there, doesn’t it?!


Have you tackled any projects lately? I’d love to see them. If you’ve enjoyed this post, be sure to pin it on Pinterest for future reference. You can also follow us for notifications of future posts. 

Happy DIYing! 🙂

Guest Bathroom Redo



I must say, our upstairs guest bathroom is the least used bathroom in our house and now officially my favorite! My husband just finished the marble floor with a hexagon mosaic inlay and I’m in love. 

This was the most dated bathroom in the house when we bought it, but with a few upgrades and some DIY projects, it is looking MUCH better!

Here are a few before pics of the bathroom. Unfortunately, we get very carried away with our projects, and I often forget to take a lot of good before pics, but hopefully you get the idea from these. 

A few months after we moved in, we had the granite counter top put in. We also replaced the faucets, toilet paper holder, and added towel hangers. We then used oil rubbed bronze spray paint to update the lights as well as the cabinet pulls.

Oiled rubbed bronze spray paint and new globes was all we needed to update these brass light fixtures. I don’t have any before pictures, but if you can picture gold with white tulip glass, that’s what these were!

Last weekend, my husband did the floors all by himself!! I have to give you a better idea of the floor since he did such an amazing job on it. I’ll post more in-process photos of that project at a later time. We also put a fresh coat of Benjamin Moore’s decorator white paint on the cabinet because the previous “white” looked very dingy next to the new marble. 



I was a little nervous about mixing marble and granite, but I really love how it came together!

We’re holding off on doing anything with the shower tile right now. As I said in the beginning, this bathroom really isn’t used, and given that the tile in the shower is white, it works for now. We may replace it later, but we have other projects higher on the priority list!!

Feel free to post comments and let me know what you think. Also, if you enjoyed anything on this post, please be sure to Pin us on your pinterest board for future reference.